Tampa and Miami natives fight over sandwich rules in Denver

A dispute over a sandwich recipe has reached Colorado. Two Florida cities claim ownership of the Cuban sandwich, and Denver restaurants now force customers to pick a side. The conflict centers on whether the sandwich should include Genoa salami.

The sandwich evolved from the Cuban mixto, which originally featured multiple meats. In Tampa, Italian immigrants added Genoa salami to the pork, ham, and Swiss cheese combination. German immigrants introduced mustard, while Jewish migrants added pickles. Tampa residents defend this specific combination as the original. In 2012, the Tampa City Council passed a resolution to codify the "Historic Tampa Cuban Sandwich" as the city's official signature item.

Miami offers a different version. The city is credited with naming the sandwich "Cubano" and pressing it on a griddle. Miami's version omits the salami. Kristy Socarrás Bigelow, a Miami native who opened Cuba Cuba Café & Bar in Denver in 2001, notes the rivalry. She said, "I'd say on three different occasions I've had someone yell at me that this isn't a Cuban sandwich because it didn't have salami."

Socarrás Bigelow asked her critics if they were from Tampa. She explained that both the Tampa and Miami versions are valid to their respective communities. She added, "I get it, though, because we're slowly losing the connection to the culture."

Denver hosts a variety of these sandwich styles. Cuba Cuba operates six locations and serves about 1,000 Cuban sandwiches weekly. The restaurant ships bread frozen from Miami, thaws it, and bakes it in-house. Employees undergo a training process Socarrás Bigelow calls "Cubanization" to learn the culture before working a shift.

Other Denver spots serve different variations. Cuba Bakery and Café in Aurora serves the sandwich with potato sticks instead of fries. El Bohio in Lakewood offers a Medianoche on soft egg bread and an El Criollo version with lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise. Tula's Tapas Food Truck serves a Tampa-inspired sandwich called The Coño, which uses pepperoni instead of salami.

Jama Miami, located in the Eats on the Platte food incubator, is currently on hiatus. It will reopen on Nov. 3. The restaurant is led by Enrique Socarrás, who helped his sister open Cuba Cuba in 2001. The menu features a Cuban sandwich made with slow-cooked pork belly seared until crispy.

Sputnik, Oscar's Eats, and Blackbelly Market also list Cuban sandwiches on their menus. The Tampa-style version with salami remains rare in Denver. Customers must choose between the Miami and Tampa interpretations to find their preferred taste.