Phoenix baker bakes sweet bread to honor the dead

The end of October marks the beginning of preparations for Día de los Muertos in many households across the Valley of the Sun. For Clarissa Casarez Valle, the owner of the pop-up bakery Fioré, this time of year signals the start of baking season for pan de muerto, a traditional sweet bread.

Casarez Valle, who was born in Ensenada and grew up in Mexicali, moved to Phoenix in 2022. She notes that the holiday has roots in indigenous traditions that are more than 3,000 years old. Families honor deceased children on November 1 and adults on November 2 with ofrendas, marigolds, and cemetery vigils.

The bread itself has evolved over centuries. Indigenous ancestors originally used ingredients like amaranth, corn, and agave. Later, Spanish colonizers introduced wheat and sugar, creating the current recipe that is lightly sweetened and often flavored with orange. The loaf is typically round, symbolizing the cycle of life, and is topped with dough strips arranged in an X shape to represent bones and cardinal directions. A small round in the center represents the head.

Casarez Valle describes the holiday as a powerful way to remember loved ones. She points out that altars are often tiered, with the most recently deceased person featured prominently on the top level. Families place the deceased's favorite food, water, and alcohol on the altar for their spirit to enjoy. Cempasuchil, or Mexican marigolds, are often used to create a path from the altar to the cemetery to guide the spirit home.

Fioré began as a response to neighbors requesting Casarez Valle's homemade sourdough. She held her first pop-up at her neighbor's home before establishing the business. The name Fioré is a tribute to her mother, Flor, who encouraged her to pursue baking professionally. Her friend Andrea suggested adding the accent on the final letter.

The bakery currently operates at several locations in the Phoenix area. Pastries are available at Showtime Cafe in downtown Phoenix on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. On Wednesdays, Fioré is present at A La Huerta market in Avondale. The business also hosts monthly private dinners at an Airbnb location.

Every Saturday, Fioré sets up at The Sagrado, an art gallery and community space in south-central Phoenix. The venue, located at 809 S. Eighth Street, occupies a historic building in the El Campito neighborhood. The space was originally a watermelon stand and retains its original wood beams and corrugated metal roof. The Sagrado hosts an event called Mezcla from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Saturdays, featuring local vendors and coffee from the roaster Novela.

This Saturday, Casarez Valle will offer her special pan de muerto at The Sagrado. The bread will also be available at a community ofrenda event at Showtime Cafe on Wednesday evening from 6 to 8 p.m. Casarez Valle states that her goal is to provide food that makes people feel good.

The bakery's regular menu includes sourdough, cookies, and conchas, though the selection changes frequently. Showtime Cafe is located at 2431 E. Van Buren in Phoenix. A La Huerta market is at 113 E. Western Avenue in Avondale and is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. or until supplies run out.